Spork and Knife

There is an endless debate in Washington about which sushi restaurant deserves the title of the city’s best.  Kaz Sushi, Sushi Taro and Sushi Ko are consistently named amongst my sushi loving friends as the top spots.  Since one of them is not too far from home, I decided to check it out.

 Touted as “Washington’s first sushi restaurant”  Sushi Ko, located in the uppernorthwest neighborhood of Glover Park, opened its doors to Washingtonians in 1976.  From the outside the restaurant’s minimalist entrance resembles what I can only think of as a cross between a 1950’s bomb shelter and the exterior of a submarine.  It’s a good thing there is a neon blue sign above the door, because without it the restaurant would be easy to miss.

Once inside, the minimalist decor continues to give off the vibe that while appearance is something, the food is what counts.  Since the 16 stooled bar was full, I took a seat nearby and scanned the full menu.  Selections of chicken teriyaki and tempura were tempting but I had come for the sushi and nothing else. 

One glance at the selection of rolls, and the phrase “Toto, I don’t think we’re in Kansas anymore,” ran through my mind.  I’ve eaten at plenty of sushi restaurants but none that combined egg, eel, spinach, shittake and gourd in a roll.  Of course I had to try such a combination and put a check mark next to the Futomaki roll.  I followed that up with the spicy tuna, crunchy eel and crunchy shrimp roll.  Since there was a chill in the air, at the last second I ordered the Maine lobster & asparagus sumiono also known as clear Japanese soup.

In a phrase, I can sum up my entire dinner as a continuous flavor explosion.  Its obvious that Sushi Ko puts great thought in the pairings of their dishes.  Each ingredient is a star on it’s own, but when melded together creates a marriage of flavors that hits all points on the tongue. 

To start off, the lobster & asparagus suimono was light and refreshing.  The broth was subtle allowing the flavor chunks (not bites) of lobster to come through, hinting at the butteriness that contrasted with the crunch of the asparagus.   

The Spicy tuna roll (tuna with spicy sauce and scallions) was bursting with flavor, the scallions giving a sharp bite and contrast to the tuna and spicy sauce .  The Futomaki roll (egg, eel, spinach and shittake gourd) was a hint of sweet combined with the creaminess of the egg and the earthiness of the spinach and shittake. 

Sushi Ko’s ability to deliver contrasting flavors is exciting, different from your run of the mill sushi restaurant and will keep you plotting your next visit the second that last roll disappears from the plate. 

 I left the restaurant satisfied and happy, knowing I had only scratched the surface of Sushi Ko’s gastronomic experience.  Where it ranks among Washington’s other top sushi spots-I can’t comment just yet.  I can say that if you’re looking for excellent sushi then this is a good stop. 

Thankfully, the restaurant is close to home and I will return to dig a little deeper into the pages of their menu.        

Sushi Ko

2309 Wisconsin Ave. NW

Washington, D.C. 20007

202-333-4187